Waterton Lakes National Park

13 June, 2013



Glacier National Park is part of a World Heritage Site called Glacier-Waterton Lakes. Waterton Lakes National Park is on the Canadian side. We couldn't come this close and not see the Canadian part, could we?

Recall from our frustrating rental car experience that we couldn't take Lixojinha into Canada, and that we had to rent another car just for our day in Canada. The Avis place was conveniently located right across the railroad tracks from the lodge.

They gave us a Jetta, much more like our own car.


The scenery was really pretty even traveling along the road outside the park while we were still in Montana. Photo by Eric.


I took Eric's picture in front of some of the Montana scenery.


Along US 89.


We passed this eclectically-decorated, hippie-looking cafe that said "Aliens Welcome" on the roof and "Be Nice to Fat People" on the door.


We popped in to ask how late they were open, and I availed myself of a piece of huckleberry pie. They told us they "closed at 10:00 last night," so we told them we would be back for dinner.

We would later wish that we had never seen nor heard of the Two Sisters, but that part comes later. For now, we were having a great time and figuring on a good meal on our way back to East Glacier Park.

We reached Canada early in the afternoon.


Our first sight in Canada was, unfortunately, not a beautiful mountain, but a Canadian border officer, in that dreadful meant-to-intimidate police stance, wearing a belt full of various weapons, vigorously feeling up someone who was just out of sight behind a building. Et tu, Canada? This ugly picture deflated the elation I'd felt all morning, and left me trying not to spend the whole day fearing that we would face a similar level of disrespect from our own countrymen on the way back.

The sign welcoming us to the joint park. The signs on the American side just say "Glacier National Park."


A new Canadian province for us! Photo by Eric.


Eric with some mountain scenery.


Eric took my picture at an overlook. Mark made me the hat.


An unidentified mountain.


Another unidentified mountain.


The Visitor Center. Photo by Eric.


The topography of both parks.


The ranger gave us a much more detailed trail guide than you get for any American national park without data access. It had a complete list of trails, organized by area and level of difficulty, with the found-trip trail distance, the elevation gain, and an estimated time to complete the trail. She also gave us a beautiful, 44-page visitor guide that actually had some real information along with the ads, and a detailed map of the village. Based on her recommendation, as well as National Geographic's, we chose the Bear's Hump Trail, a steep, one-hour climb, with an elevation gain of 225 meters in 2,800 meters of distance, which Parks Canada had rated as "moderate." Note that that's about an 8% elevation gain, and also note how ridiculously easy it is to calculate elevation gain in the metric system and why all of you Americans should be eager to ditch your stupidly complicated measurement system. See how long it takes you to calculate the elevation gain of 738 feet in 1.8 miles.

As we headed up the trail, I recognized the Scarlet Paintbrush from our Pacific Northwest trip.


I got a view of one straight down.


Eric got a close-up of more of those crazy insect nests.


The nests got weirder. Photo by Eric.


I got a picture of this hand-shaped one.


Eric took my picture heading up the steep trail.


Several times, we passed people who assured us that the view at the top would be worth the climb. Eric noted that the American National Park Service's trail guides throw around terms like, "arduous" and "strenuous" like colored beads at Mardi Gras. Meanwhile, we shudder to think of what Parks Canada would classify as "strenuous."

A geologically interesting slope beside the trail.


After nearly 45 minutes of climbing, we reached the summit at last.


The view was indeed tremendous. Eric took a picture looking south toward Upper Waterton Lake.


I took one looking north toward Middle Waterton Lake.


The best views, however, were across the Bosporus passage between Middle and Upper Waterton Lakes. The picture at the top of this page shows the isthmus, and here you can see the little village as well.


Looking down from the precipice.


Eric took a close-up picture of the iconic Prince of Wales Hotel, looking like a dollhouse from up there.


Eric at the Bear's Hump summit.


Eric took my picture at the summit.


A mountain from the summit.


Detail of the striations in the rock.


A mountain from the summit.


Eric taking a picture to the south.


Eric on the trail down. The whole thing took us about an hour and a half, or half again as much as time as it apparently takes Canadians.


Back down in the village, as I waited for my legs to stop shaking, Eric took a picture of the Canadian flag.


Eric also got a picture of a log cabin.


The ranger had told us about Cameron Falls, which were very accessible and right on the road in the village. We stopped to see them and find an earth cache there.


We made a stop at the beautiful Prince of Wales Hotel.


Since this is the sister park to the American Glacier National Park, this is considered the sister lodge to the Glacier Park Lodge where we were staying. Eric read that it was hastily named the Prince of Wales Hotel right before the prince's visit to Canada, in a failed attempt to induce him to stay there.

Eric took a picture looking up at the hotel rooms.


Eric also got a picture of the stained glass in the doors.


We were just ten minutes late for the last seating of high tea with a gorgeous view of the mountains.

I did take a picture of some of the pretty teacups.


We bought some sundries from the gift shop, where the counter clerk told us that she and most of the other hotel staff hike up to the top of the Bear's Hump almost every day.

Eric took a picture of lovely Upper Waterton Lake right behind the hotel.


Mountains behind the hotel.


Eric's picture of the view behind the hotel.


He also took one of the view of the village from the hotel.


Eric's picture of the hotel in its surroundings.


Beautiful mountain scenery. Photo by Eric.


Looking at the peninsula at the isthmus.


After the hotel, at the suggestion of National Geographic, we headed out to hike the Red Rock Canyon. This is a mountain along the Red Rock "Parkway," which most Americans would describe as a stump road.

Since Parks Canada does not want you to have encounters with real bears, they put up a clever bear-shaped sign for photographic purposes.


Anderson Peak from the Red Rock Parkway.


Eric's view of Anderson Peak.


A mountain I couldn't identify.


Another unidentified mountain. Photo by Eric.


A small cascade running down that mountain.


More scenery from the Red Rock Parkway.


This 700-meter Red Rock Canyon loop trail, rated as "easy," was absolutely incredible.

Eric took a picture of the Red Rock Creek as we headed out onto the trail into the canyon.


Wildflowers along the trail.


Eric took a picture of different types of wildflowers.


He was quite proud of this butterfly shot.


Looking straight down into the canyon.


Deep into the canyon.


Interesting marbled patterns in the red rock.


An interpretive sign described bubbles in the walkway that indicate the rocks were formed underwater. Photo by Eric.


Eric's picture of the canyon.


Eric took my picture hiking along the trail.


He wasn't the only one. A guy coming from the other way wanted to take my picture, too, to illustrate how a hiker could be dressed for all sorts of weather and prepared for all contingencies.

The Red Rock Creek.


Eric's view of the creek.


Near the end of the trail, looking back in the direction from which we had come.


Looking forward toward the trailhead. Photo by Eric.


More pretty mountain scenery.


Eric was fascinated by these trees along the road.


There was one more road in the park that we hadn't seen--the Akamina Parkway down to Cameron Lake.

When the border inspector asked us about weapons, I said I thought it was unlikely we would see a bear. I was wrong.


We later received a flyer from the American National Park Service saying that you shouldn't stop to take pictures of bears by the side of the road because it habituates them to humans and cars too much, but we hadn't seen that at the time.


Eric's view of the bear.


This is where we found out how rapidly the weather could change.


There was a small Visitor Center there with a topo map, which, of course, Eric photographed.


It had been cold all day, but now it now not only cold, it was nearly freezing. And precipitating.


While the American National Park Service considers geocaches to be litter and allows only non-physical earth caches in American national parks, Parks Canada actually places its own caches.


The Parks Canada ranger attached her card to the cache. Placing a cache was part of her job.


The crossing back into the US was actually fairly easy. The agent just asked us the standard questions about where we lived, what we did for a living, whether we'd bought anything (we did buy some cookies and candy), and whether we had any alcohol, tobacco, firearms or large quantities of cash. He took a quick look in the back seat and in the trunk, but did not take the whole car apart. At this point, we thought we could relax, have a nice little dinner in a fun place, get back to the lodge reasonably early and have a nice restful night.

We really enjoyed the scenery along the Chief Mountain Highway.


Isn't it pretty?


Chief Mountain itself.


You can really see how Chief Mountain got its name.


It totally dominates the skyline.


A rainbow along the road.


We had greatly enjoyed our day in Canada, seeing the scenery, doing great hikes, and being among friendly Canadians. We were having a great time until we got to the Two Sisters. Although they had told us to expect them to be open until 22:00, when we got there at about 21:15, there was only one car in the parking lot, and the window shades were down. There were both "open" and "closed" signs in the window, so Eric went up to the door to ask. The waitress was cleaning up and, turning the "open" sign around, told him they were closed.

This put us into quite a dilemma, because most of the area's restaurants closed at 21:00. We thought we had solved the miserable "finding a dinner place that's open late" problem, and were distressed to find ourselves, tired and hungry, driving past one after another closed restaurant. Lulu the GPS predicted that we could not get back to the lodge before 22:00, and we were sure the restaurant there would be closed by then. On the windy route back to the lodge, we did not think we could beat Lulu's estimate. So, we kept slowing down in front of one restaurant after another, seeing the closed signs, and moving on, getting hungrier and hungrier. We had had only car snacks for lunch, so we were particularly hungry. We were extremely angry with those hippies back at the Two Sisters.

At last, we decided that we would just have to go back to the lodge, and, while they probably couldn't give us a nice hot meal, they surely had food, so they could at least give us something cold. It turned out, unfortunately, that they could not give us anything more than bread rolls. Apparently, the chefs are required to lock the refrigerators when they leave at the end of the day so that employees cannot steal the food. What a miserable, ugly personnel policy.

Eric had a lengthy discussion with the bartender and the counter clerk, while I sat in the bar trying not to cry. Finally, he came back and told me that the one place in town still open, the Trailhead Saloon, served frozen pizza. We could have walked there, but we drove, because it was cold, and because I didn't want to risk getting there only to be told, somehow, that the oven shut down at 22:30.

So, this is how we came to find ourselves eating frozen pepperoni pizza in a dive bar on a native reservation in Montana.

The bartender, who couldn't have been more than 25, was incredibly forthright and friendly. He told us that all the pizzas had sausage and pepperoni or even more mammal meat on them, but said he could try to pick it off while it was still frozen. I said I was hungry and would just eat the pork, but Eric asked to have the pork picked off. The guy couldn't really extract much of the sausage from the cheese, but he did give it a try.

Eric doesn't like bars and was clearly uncomfortable with the noise from the jukebox. I pointed out that at least it was classic rock and reggae and not country-western. I found the place reasonably pleasant--the gender mix was well balanced, and the music was good. Montana or tribal law apparently requires smokers to do their business outside, so the air was as breathable as it gets at that elevation. At this point, I would have been happy to have been the only woman in a bar full of smoking cowboys and loud country music if it had meant I could have had something to eat, but things were considerably better than that.


What with a frustrating hour and a half spent trying to get ourselves fed, we didn't get back to our room until 23:30, and didn't get to bed until 00:15. It was a very frustrating and unhappy end to an otherwise wonderful day.

Yes, I know people around the world go hungry every day, and, you know what? It really sucks for them, too.

Distance hiked: 2.5 km (I can be really precise here because of Parks Canada's data).

On to Many Glacier area.


Last updated: 14/06/2013 by Eric and Beth Zuckerman