Snæfellsness

11 August, 2014



Our reward for missing out on the treasures of north Iceland was a chance to explore the Snæfellsness Peninsula. This peninsula has the third of Iceland's national parks, Snæfellsjökull National Park. The major formation in the park is a snow-capped volcano called Snæfell. Jules Verne wrote about this volcano in Journey to the Centre of the Earth.

Driving to Snæfell

For the first time since we've been in Iceland, we had a beautiful sunny day. We set out from Borgarnes, which is near where the peninsula starts heading out to the west. At first, instead of running along the coast, the road wound through the interior territory. Of course, there were volcanoes.

Eldborg.


Eldborg looks like a lovely mesa, doesn't it? It's not. It's actually a spatter cone, and it's not flat on top at all. It's a crater. Classic Geology in Europe 3: Iceland has a picture of the aerial view, and it's not at all what you would expect from looking at it from the side.

Our first view of Snæfell, from the road.


Snæfell and environs from an overlook.


Stapafell (left) and sloping hillside from the same overlook.


Iceland is full of these cute little churches.


Coming around to the southwest side of Snæfell, the mountain looks quite different!


The lighthouse at Malariff. Not exceptionally impressive as lighthouses go.


All of the lava in this area is covered with this lovely green moss. It looks like a fine layer, but it's actually thicker than a very plush carpet.

In the center of the picture, you can see the depression my thumb left in the thick moss.


This is how I found out just how thick the moss was, climbing up on some lava to take a picture. Eric took my picture.


Eric got a better picture of the formation.


I got a nice picture of them from a different vantage point.


Snæfell has a couple of features on top.

Look at the red peak. Classic Geology in Europe 3: Iceland does not tell me why it is red, just that the mountain has a summit caldera.


Eric took a picture of this other pointy feature.


Eric took a picture of the topo map of Snæfell at the park's Visitor Center.


Vatnshellir

Other than glacier trekking (which of course we'd already done at Skaftafell), the primary activity at the park is exploring the lava caves at Vatnshellir. It was this exact cave system at Vatnshellir that Jules Verne used in Journey to the Centre of the Earth.

Lava caves are formed when lava at the surface cools and hardens while lava underneath is still running through hot. Eric and I have explored lava caves in Hawai'i, Washington, Oregon, California and Idaho. Yes, you can see awesome lava caves in California, but you have to drive about six hours from the Bay Area. Exploring the lava caves at Vatnshellir requires going with a park guide.

The helmets probably weren't necessary, but they wanted us to wear them.


You enter the cave through this unusual structure. Photo by Eric.


The stairs down into the cave. Eric used a flash and thus got a better picture than I did.


Eric took a picture of the inside of the cave at the bottom of the stairs.


I took a picture by the light of our flashlights.


Looking into the deep end of the cave.


Eric took a picture of these stalagmites.


The guide explained that these stalagmites were formed in a completely different way from the way stalagmites in more familiar limestone caves. You probably know that stalagmites form in limestone caves by the buildup of drops of water over geologic time. These stalagmites, however, were formed instantaneously. The come about when gas under pressure in a volcano suddenly escapes through a fissure, and propels lava up with it. These small pieces of lava cool immediately and form these shapes. Quite an exciting thing to see!

At one point, the guide had everyone turn off all of the flashlights so that we could experience the complete darkness of the cave. In the dark and quiet, you could really hear the drops of water falling in the cave. The guide explained that those were drops from a rainstorm two weeks before, still falling through.

The guide explained that, since there are no bats in Iceland, there are hardly any living things in the cave. There are just some unusual bacteria that are found nowhere outside Iceland.

There was, however, the skeleton of an Arctic Fox. Photo by Eric.


We went off looking for a cache, but decided it was going to be too far from the parking area, so we didn't find it. We did meet some Dutch cachers.

And we found a zipline, which is apparently part of an obstacle course.


Just look at the density of dandelions!


Hellnar

Next, we went to Hellnar, because Lonely Planet's Iceland recommended the trail through the lava field from Hellnar to Arnarstapi.

Hellnar Beach was beautiful.


Down on the rocky beach, looking into a cave.



There was more than one cave on the beach.


Detail of the bigger cave. Rocks can be so beautiful.


Eric's cave detail.


We have seen this cute little bird, the White Wagtail, all over Iceland.


The clarity of the water was unbelievable. The water was so calm, it made me wish I had a dry suit.


Rocks on the beach, worn smooth by the water.


The trailhead for the 2.5 km (1.5 mi) trail to Arnarstapi was at the beach. We immediately found ourselves hiking through a large field of mossy lava.

Eric took my picture next to a formation.


Stapafell from the lava field.


A pretty little inlet.


Eric took a picture of this moss-covered formation, which he thought looked like an aligator sock puppet.


A succulent growing on the lava.


Lava jutting out into the water.


An even prettier inlet further along the trail.


Detail along the wall of this inlet.


Eric took a great picture looking at the mossy top of the rock wall.


He also took a picture of a stream running down to the sea.


At the other trailhead was this statue of Bárður. Lonely Planet's Iceland says that Bárður is the guardian spirit of this region.


The light was becoming nicer as we headed back toward Hellnar. I took a picture of the aligator sock puppet.


Fun lava rocks that cooled while rolling downhill.


Eric took a picture of some interesting lava.


We don't know what this building is, but it sure stood out in this environment. Photo by Eric.


Back in Hellnar, I took a picture of a cemetery on the hillside overlooking the water.


We would be spending the night at the Hotel Hellnar. Lonely Planet's Iceland recommended splurging on the dinner at the hotel restaurant.

Eric took a picture of the hotel, which wasn't quite as ugly as the last one.


You might think that a building this size would have two rooms in it.


Instead, it has four. Yup, that's the whole thing. I spent so much time tripping over my suitcase.


But the hotel's setting, on the hillside between the volcano and the sea, was superb.

Eric took a picture of the view from the lobby.


The restaurant was indeed very good. Lonely Planet's Iceland had recommended the black cod, so we tried that along with another flatfish with an Icelandic name. The cod was very tender, but Eric liked the taste of the other fish better. Both pieces of fish were served over yummy potatoes. We also shared a langostine salad and a creamy mousse cake for dessert.

This day was not as positively thrilling as the previous two, but it was nice to take a slower pace and do some fun exploring. We certainly saw some beautiful and amazing things, and we glad we had been able to make the time for Snæfellsness.

On to Viking Sushi.


Last updated: 12/08/2014 by Eric and Beth Zuckerman